Black Diamond ambassador Taisei Homma.
  • 2022 IFSC Lead World Cup Villars 1st place
  • 2022 IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix 2nd place
  • 2022 IFSC Lead World Cup Briançon 2nd place
  • 2021 Asagimadara V15, Mizugaki, Japan (Boulder)
  • 2018 Rollito Sharma 8b+, Santa Linya, Spain (Lead)

I was very happy to win the second round of the 2022 Lead World Cup in Villers, representing Japan for the first time in three years and overcoming hardships to win the gold medal. Then I won silver medals in the third and fourth rounds, and to win three medals in a row was so incredible that I thought it was a dream come true.

When did you start climbing?

Seven years old. There happened to be an indoor climbing facility near my home, and my father took me there.  At first I played soccer, swimming, and many other sports, but little by little I started climbing more and more often, and eventually it became the only thing I did.

What brought you into the climbing world / why climbing? 

The feeling of accomplishment when you face yourself through trial, error and climb to the limit of your physical strength is appealing.  I have experienced many different sports, then climbing is the one that I enjoyed the most.

What do you most enjoy about your sport?

I enjoy visiting different places for competitions and rock climbing, seeing different landscapes, and connecting with many people, which is an invaluable experience for me.

How do you define success?

Grabbing the top hold.

What do you think is the key to succeed? What was yours?

To keep believing in myself. There was a difficult time when I could not make the national team for three years and did not get any results, but I believe that believing in myself, not giving up and continuing to move forward during this period are very strong supports for me now.

What are you most proud of, in life, your sport or both?

My friends. I am blessed with many friends.  Many people have supported me and made me the person I am today.  I have friends who inspire each other, people who are happy to support me as if they were my own, and many friends who give me advice and help.  I am proud of the wonderful friends I have and I will cherish them.

Who are your heroes?

Jacob Schubert. In 2014, the Lead World Cup was held in Inzai city, Japan.  And it was the first time I went to see the World Cup.  I still remember how cool it was to watch him climb with all his might. I love Jacob's climbing style and admire him. And there is one more person.  He is not a climber, but he is “Iron Man (Marvel movie)”.  Although he was never overwhelmingly powerful, the way he stood up to them using his own brains and skills was very cool, and it is my favorite movie. I can’t count how many times I watched it.

What inspires you?

When I see the Japanese team performing well in competitions around the world, I am spurred to work hard.  Japan is a high-level country with many strong climbers, which always inspires me when I practice.  And there are always people who support me. I want to respond to their support and show them how happy I am

What are your hobbies outside of your sport?

Cooking, Reading, Sauna.

What’s your guilty pleasure?

Eating sweets.

What are your hidden talents?

To cook and serve food. Another is to be able to eat a lot (I once ate 3 kilos of rice. But I rarely do that because if I eat a lot, I won't be able to climb...)

Tell us about your most favorite place in the world?

Arco, Italy. With many rocky mountains and beautiful lakes, I can feel that the city loves climbing, and there are many good restaurants where you can enjoy Mediterranean cuisine.

As a child, what did you want to be when you grew up?

Firefighter. I admired firefighters when I saw how cool they looked at work experience sessions.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be, and why?

Talking inability. I wish I could make people laugh a lot.  I am a man of few words...

Tell us about a time in your life when you have been scared?

The challenge of climbing with only four bolts on a route of about 25m to 30m.

Describe the perfect day.

It was a day when I was able to carry out what I should have done and what I decided to do the day before.

How would your friends describe you?

Always at his own pace and relaxed.  Quiet.